The famous white sand beaches of Nice are bordered by the Promenade des Anglais.  This promenade was the tragic site of the devastating terrorist truck attack on Bastille Day, July 14th, 2016.  The terrorist mowed down nearly 300 people, killing 86.

Marilla and Mitch in front of a Nice Harbor overlook (June, 2017).  The hill separating Nice from Villefranche-sur-Mer is seen over Mitch’s left shoulder. (rig as you look at this picture).

Nice and Villefranche-sur-Mer are separated by a hill.  The face of each side of the hill look away from each other and at their respective harbors.  Many lovely homes have been built into each hillside, an engineering feat characteristic of many hillsides in France, particularly those overlooking bodies of water.

We anchored in Villefranche-sur-Mer’s beautiful, uncrowded, harbor the evening before Margaret and Burt flew into Nice.  We let them rest up with a quiet dinner on Ice Floe following their arduous flight from home (Buffalo to Dublin to Nice).

The following morning we took them to visit Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Margaret and Burt in Villefranche-sur-Mer (June, 2018) – love at first site

Villefranche-sur-Mer translates to Tax-free village on the sea.  It acquired the tax-free status following the transition of the area’s inhabitants from hillside olive farmers to coastal fishermen.  In 1295, the Duke of Provence offered tax-free status to inhabitants of the hills if they would move to the coast and provide a first-line defense against marauders (Turk Saracen, et al) who would use this coast to establish a base from which to invade Nice.

Villefranche-sur-Mer has approximately 8000 people living there.  It has one of the loveliest, quaint, Old Towns we have visited, to date.

Villefranche-sur-Mer side of hill opposite Nice

A closer view of the waterfront of Villefranche-sur-Mer

The hilltop, and consequently the village is steep.  Many of the narrow streets are stepped and beautifully paved.  We spent a wonderful morning and afternoon exploring them.

Entering Port de Nice with a view of schoolchildren exiting in their Optimus for sailing classes

Our travels take us to Nice, France once more.   We are meeting my sister and brother-in-law, Margaret and Burt, who are joining us for a couple of weeks.  Those of you who have visited us when we are sailing, know that payment is frequently exacted in our many requests to bring things we need from the States.  Requests may be as innocuous as crackers (very difficult to find in France), or desperately needed such as a new keel winch.  Oftentimes, we simply order what we need and send it to the home of the next person who is visiting us.

We let Margaret and Burt know they would be receiving several packages. We asked that they remove the packaging and bring the items along in their checked luggage.  Apparently, according to Margaret, those instructions admittedly were received, but promptly forgotten.  Being the sweetest and most considerate sister anyone could hope for, she put them in her carry-on to make sure they were not damaged or lost.  She also, thoughtfully, did not open any of the packages, as she explained, they were not hers.  When their carry-on luggage was screened, a bag was pulled aside and an item was pulled out.

The TSA agent asked “Do you know what is in this package?”.

Margaret stammered in response “No, they just kept mailing us stuff and told us to take it on the plane.”

I would not kid you – this is a direct quote from Margaret.  The TSA agent opened the package and presented them with the two sailing knives George had mailed to them.

Now, it wouldn’t be fair to poke fun only at Margaret and Burt.  First of all, we do appreciate their carting things over for us.  It was also very fortunate that they were so obviously no threat to anyone, the TSA agent allowed Burt to have their checked luggage retrieved so he could add the knives to it (although he was escorted).  But the real reason it would not be fair, is that George has had prior experience talking himself out of incarceration by TSA because of knives in his carry-on.

Some years back, George was flying to Florida to help his Mom and Dad after Hurricane Charlie.  He had a particular razor knife that fit his hand just so, and he wanted to bring it.  He travels light and was not checking any bags so he dissembled it and brought it in a clear zip-lock bag with no razors.  When he reached security to have his luggage scanned, he immediately brought it to their attention to make sure they were OK with it.  They were absolutely not OK with it and he had to throw away his favorite razor knife.His luggage was scanned and pulled aside.  They had seen something that looked like a knife in his bag.  When they opened it, sure enough, he had a pocket knife.  This knife is one he always carries on his belt. When he packed his belt, he did not give it a second thought.  It is worth mentioning that he packed his belt inside his work boots inside the bag.  OK, his pocket knife was now added to the garbage can.  When his Tilly hat went through, there was another issue.  On inspection of his hat, they found a small knife in a pocket on the inside of the hat.

George said sheepishly  “I am not going to make my plane, am I?”

The TSA agent said seriously “No, I don’t think you are.”

However, believe it or not, a TSA supervisor appeared shortly after this exchange and asked George if he was a contractor.  George replied that he was and the supervisor replied that he had been one previously, as well.  He then let him go to catch his plane (without his little pocket knife).

When such good fortune befalls you, I know it is in particularly bad taste to criticize the benefactor.  However, it does make you wonder about “reverse profiling” – a term my daughter used the time she was pulled aside by TSA.She frequently returned to college after visiting home with as much food as she could stuff in her bags.  We have watched her bring whole frozen, home grown, chickens in her carry-on without being questioned.  On the occasion she was pulled aside, she was carrying some very large beets.  The TSA agent asked what they were and was told they were beets.  They were VERY large.  The TSA agent wiped them and tested them for explosive residue (or whatever they test for).  The agent returned and told our lovely, young, Caucasian daughter and her equally handsome, mid-western husband, that the beets tested positive.  He then let them take them on board anyway.

Marilla said to us later “How is that for reverse profiling?”.

On a subsequent trip, when she was carrying a set of silverware, she was not able to bring the butter knives on the plane.

Marilla said “Just in case there was any butter on the plane.”

Sailing Northeast up the French Riviera Coast from the mouth of the Rhône to the Porquerolles

On June 9th we were finally on our way.  What a joy to have the boat “ship-shape” and to get back to sailing.  It was a bright, sunny day in the mid 70s.

View from my window

For most of the day we had nice winds (10-14 knots) from the southwest – perfect for our trip northeast towards Nice.  As the winds lightened, George got a chance to try out his new gennaker (code 0 asymmetric spinnaker) – he is always his happiest when he is engaged with something new and this beast is new to us.

On our way we saw two more mola mola (ocean sunfish).  These two were tiny compared to the one we saw last summer with our children and grandchildren.  George drew our attention to it and we all tried to figure out what we were looking at.  Resembling a dolphin of enormous proportions that lost the back third of its body – I recall saying quite sadly that it was a dolphin that had been horribly injured.  At that moment George and Marilla simultaneously recognized it as a mola mola.  The rest of us were astonished that they both knew what it was and a bit about its behavior.  Mola mola are the largest bony fish in existence and can grow to over 2 tons.  In the following National Geographic description ocean-sunfish it is referred to as both a floating blob and a swimming head.  You will most likely first see them as one of their fins sticks up out of the water,  They typically live at great depths, but come up to the surface where cleaner fish and seagulls pick parasites off of them.  A real oddity and exciting to see in the seemingly barren waters along the coast of the Riviera.

Mola mola (Ocean Sunfish) borrowed from publicdomainpictures.net

Another first for us – we were hailed by a French Customs vessel and questioned about where we had come from, where we were headed, the history of our sailboat – just routine.  They took us at our word and did not request documentation.

One of the most exciting events of the day was that after sailing for 6 hours, our batteries remained fully charged.  George was able to observe the electrical input and change dramatically as a wisp of cloud passed over the sun.  Having solar power to replenish the batteries without running the engine, or staying in a marina to recharge, is going to give us tremendous independence when we sail in the Caribbean.  The solar power also gives us the ability to have a small chest freezer.  This will predominantly be used to keep us in ice (what a luxury) and to freeze fish when we get back to waters that actually have some.  Our fishing gear will remain under our bed for the duration of our time in the Mediterranean.

Fishing isn’t always about catching

We can say for certain that the French are the most optimistic fishermen we have ever met.  We have seen hundreds and hundreds of people fishing along the banks of the French canals, rivers, beaches, et al.  We have only seen one, approximately 4 inch fish, reeled in.

We are uncertain if this gentleman walked out here or was dropped off.  There is no boat in sight.

 While the fish may be scarce for those who want to fish themselves, there is no shortage in the markets and grocery stores.  There is always a wide assortment of both fresh and frozen seafood and meats.  We keep our provisions stocked with several of the cured sausages and hams that do not require refrigeration. And the cheeses – such variety and so wonderful.  We are very fond of freshly cooked rotisserie chickens and occasionally purchase fresh meats or fish for near-term consumption.  The fruit and produce is almost exclusively local and in season.  Local generally equates to France or Spain and the origin of produce is always specified.  We are already enjoying fresh apricots, peaches, and strawberries – Yum.

Donut peaches (our name for them)

We were never quite certain about these “donut” peaches when we saw them on supermarket shelves in the US.  This entire box, including the empty spaces was for sale at 2.70 Euro so we decided to take a try.  They are absolutely delicious.  The next best thing to that is, you can bite off a mouthful without peach juice dribbling down your chin.  This morning we had peach pancakes.  We are sold!!  Whoever conceived of and/or developed these is a genius in our book.

We anchored out in a lovely calanque (a fiord-like cleft in rock cliff), Calanque de Morigue),and enjoyed a bottle of a local, slightly sweet sparkling wine, made from muscat grapes.  At the right season, you can sample many varieties of grapes that we have never seen in the US.  The muscat grape is a delicious, aromatic white grape which we imagine is used principally for winemaking.  Dinner was pork chops, potatoes, and zucchini.  There was a gentle swell of waves and we fell asleep to the rhythmic rocking of the boat.

Approach to our evening anchorage in Calanque de Morgiou

June 9th – George had us on our way bright and early with the wind now out of the north and tempered to single digit knots.  We motored half the day but in the afternoon the winds shifted favorably and gave George a perfect opportunity to see his gennaker perform.  The jib that we purchased with ICE FLOE was great for sailing into the wind, but was inefficient otherwise.  The gennaker is just what we needed to optimize our sailing versus motoring time.

Toulon water treatment plant

As we made our way to our evening destination to anchor near the Porquerolles, we sailed by a building tucked into the mountain.  When we first saw this enormous, modern, building last summer, we pondered what it was and how it was accessed – we thought surely, by someone with great wealth seeking privacy.  Perhaps some evil nemesis of James Bond.  We were intrigued to learn it is a wastewater treatment facility for the city of Toulon and surrounding areas.

Our anchorage Saturday evening was not as private or quiet as the evening before but we found a beautiful spot.  There were many people enjoying the start of their weekend, with boat parties and music.  Quite a few stalwart people were swimming and just hanging out in the water that was 75^o degrees (a little too chilly for me unless the air temperature is 90^o or hotter).  We fell asleep long before things quieted down entirely – at the end of a day sailing there is little that will deter our sleep.

Anchorage in Porquerolles

It took the Queen Mary, Brittany Ferry, two rental cars, 3 hotels, and one taxi and we are finally here.

I came down with a nasty cold shortly after our Ferry ride to Saint Malo.  As such we did not do much site seeing as we drove through France.  We arrived in Port Napoléon on May 27th.  We are about to set sail tomorrow, June 8th to meet Margaret and Burt in Nice.  We are so looking forward to their visit with us.

Individual homes in the town of Port Saint Louis Du Rhône near Port Napoléon

A recap of the last 11 days – short version – work, work, work

Port Napoléon is a full service marina in the town of Port St. Louis Du Rhône, located at the mouth of the Rhône where it meets the Mediterranean.  If you need something done on your boat, you can get it done here.  It is also a marina that is highly recommended for keeping your boat over-winter.  It offers inexpensive rooms where you can stay when it is no longer tenable to stay on your boat.  Most sailors who are at Port Napoléon in the spring are prepping to get away.  In the fall, it is prepping to store the boat.

There is a saying that sailing is 90% boredom and 10% terror.  We have yet to experience the terror part – there have been a few rough sails, but nothing akin to terror.  I can’t think of a time when we were bored.  It is peaceful and relaxing and George will tell you I am prone to napping, but never bored. I recommend this saying be amended to say “Sailing is 89% pure pleasure and 10% working on your boat” – I will leave 1% for the terror as I have heard enough stories to be sure it is real.

Pretty much any time you have work to do inside a boat the size of ours, it gets pretty uncomfortable to carry out acts of daily living.  Things like making a meal, or simply walking from the galley to the salon, or from the cockpit to the cabin can be a challenge.  Tools come out of storage and occupy the limited space on every surface.  Hatches are opened creating leg-breaking hazards.  Beds are dismantled to put things away.  All of this is part of the package – if you don’t have at least one person on board who likes to fix things you are going to spend a lot of time and money paying someone else to do so.  These are momentary pauses in the otherwise idyllic experience.  When you are prepping a boat for storage, or for sailing after storage, it is a week plus of long days of hard work.  If at all possible, plan stay somewhere other than the boat while you are still dealing with sails on your bed.

Last Fall we prepared ICE FLOE for her winter storage on land.  This entails lots of tasks including:

When we arrived this Spring our bright and shiny new boat was quite a site.  She was very dirty.  As if 7 months open storage exposed to sun, airborne debris, and dust was not enough, the south of France experiences (rather frequently) “dirty rain”.  It was explained to us that the rain brings with it sand from the Sahara.  In addition, ICE FLOE had been moved to a particularly dusty part of the yard.  We had hired out the work of repainting the bottom and replacing the water line stripe with hard paint.  This area of the yard also strips off bottom paint and while efforts are made to limit the drift of this paint dust, ICE FLOE got more than her share.

Thankfully, the inside of the boat was as we left it and the cleaning of a boat is one of the more pleasurable tasks in spring – so no big deal.  Of course, everything we did to prepare the boat for storage needed now to be undone to prepare her for sailing.  This too, was routine and we were happy to get to it.

In time we will learn to expect and be ready for some additional unexpected issues to be ladled on top of the known.

Unexpected issue number 1.

A problem we encountered early on after we purchased ICE FLOE was a malfunction that caused the boat to speed forward when put into reverse.  Imagine my reaction when George approached a dock with me on the bow to lasso a cleat.  As we approach, instead of slowing to a stop, George suddenly speeds forward driving me straight into a patch of thorny blackberries.  

After repeated requests for this action and finally escalating this issue to the highest levels within the Allures Company and her Mother Company (Grand Large Services) we were informed that the Head for France’s J-prop distribution had inspected the prop, found no damage, re-greased the prop, re-instated the warranty, and assured us the prop was working perfectly.  We were satisfied with this response.

Sadly, and maddeningly, when we checked the prop on our arrival in Port Napoléon, it was frozen solid.  George used all his strength and could not move the blades.  George pulled the propeller off and we took it to Grand Large Services in La Grande Mott.  The response there was everything we could have hoped for.  Our experience when working directly with the employees at Grand Large Services has been uniformly positive.  We were immediately sent a replacement prop and our malfunctioning prop has been sent back to the manufacturer.  We lost 2 days removing, transporting, and replacing the prop, but we were happy campers.

Unexpected issue number 2.

The offending antifreeze

Winterizing the water tank involves adding anti-freeze.  It takes quite a number of tank flushes to remove it and restore normal taste to the water but it is a necessary evil if storing where the boat might experience freezing temperatures.  This year’s experience was a nightmare.  Whatever is in the anti-freeze we purchased in France formed white chunks of a soapy, waxy substance that clogged the faucets and the foot pumps.  We exchanged water in the tank more than a dozen times and white chunks kept coming.  George opened the water tank and found precipitated globs of this material.  He spent the better part of the day laying on the floor, reaching in to pull this stuff out and using a jet of water to dislodge this material and suck it out.  This, another dozen flushes, and a tank treatment with baking soda, a half dozen more flushes and the water looks and tastes fine.  He spent another half of a day disassembling, cleaning and rebuilding the foot pumps.

One morning I saw a great deal of white clumps near a boat on our dock – sure enough, they were dealing with the same issue.  Previously, we had inquired of the marine store owner where we purchased the anti-freeze if there was some trick to dissolving and flushing it out.  He read the label and explained it simply indicated the tank should be flushed several times.  The other sailor was a bit more boisterous in speaking with the store owner and George happened to be there.  He was happy to second the man’s complaints.  Hopefully, he will pull it from his shelves.

Soooooooo.  No use trying to make a long story short – we are finally ready to have some of that 89% pure pleasure.

French children taking turns jousting