April | 2026 | Go With The Floe

History

In 1805 Napoleon Bonaparte decreed trees be planted along roadsides in France and other domains within his empire to provide shade to troops and other travelers. Many different species of trees were planted and large, tree-lined roads remain a characteristic feature in France to this day. Long rows of similar-sized Sycamores are one of the most prevalent species we see in our travels.

Sycamore trees of a similar age, size, and pruning style line both sides of the street in Castelnaudary, France

Sycamores along the footpath beside a tributary leading to
Sallèles-d’Aude where we enjoyed many walks with Duhkxy

Last year we witnessed the devastation that had befallen Sycamore trees caused by a universally lethal fungus. It was killing hundreds and hundreds and many miles of Sycamore trees. From the first evidence of some unhealthy leaves to the death of the tree took only two years. One by one these beautiful trees were succumbing.

Remaining stumps of stricken trees and the next tree in the row soon to follow

This season we were delighted to learn that a vaccine had been developed that is effective in arresting the disease and restoring health to them. It is not a cure, and must be administered every three years but these beautiful giants have been saved for now. A resistant plane tree is being used for replacement of lost trees and tree species diversification has been embraced.

Canal du Midi

Pierre-Paul Riquet devoted 15 years of his life to the research and development required to construct the Canal du Midi. He went on to oversee its construction which started in 1667 and ended in 1681, 7 months after his death. Such was his dedication, he also invested and lost his entire personal fortune, leaving his descendants in debt.

A part of the construction included the banks of the canal be planted with trees to help control errosion. The first trees were primarily willow trees.

Today, the most prevalent tree is the Sycamore. We are currently canalling the Canal du Midi on “Detour”. In the summer months, the shade of the Sycamores are very welcomed. In their absence, it can be uncomfortably hot.

In various settings, Sycamores may grow with no pruning intervention, limbed and sometimes cropped at height of 20-30 feet, drastically pruned to conform to a restricted space, or sheared and almost bushy.

Long live the Sycamores.

France has much to recommend no matter the season, but springtime is my favorite. As we spend much of our time on the canals, you can be sure there will be plenty of water, the countryside is a feast of flowers, the temperature is comfortable and mosquitos have not yet arrived.

We do not often see formal, manicured, gardens. In my mind, these gardens are a reflection of how I have come to know the French people- kind, and mindful of what matters most to them. It is a delight to observe young children in a restaurant, cafe, or park. They are not required to sit in silence at the table. They often wander about, play with other children, and snatch a French fry from the plate of an adult. Crying or anger is rare, and when it is seen, is calmly and lovingly addressed by an adult.

On a side note (while related in my mind) dogs are welcome in venues where they would not be in many other countries. This is not quite as prevalent as it once was. The observation that French dogs are remarkably well behaved has been studied. They are often unleashed, but rarely stray from their owner or show aggression. At the same time, their obedience is immediate.

It is true, that adherence in France to picking up dog excrement is not high. I imagine their reasoning is – it is natural fertilizer and will be gone in a short while; the plastic bags used to pick up the waste is more of a pollutant. We do however, pick our dog Duhkxy’s poop up.