Springtime in France

France has much to recommend no matter the season, but springtime is my favorite. As we spend much of our time on the canals, you can be sure there will be plenty of water, the countryside is a feast of flowers, the temperature is comfortable and mosquitos have not yet arrived.

We do not often see formal, manicured, gardens. In my mind, these gardens are a reflection of how I have come to know the French people- kind, and mindful of what matters most to them. It is a delight to observe young children in a restaurant, cafe, or park. They are not required to sit in silence at the table. They often wander about, play with other children, and snatch a French fry from the plate of an adult. Crying or anger is rare, and when it is seen, is calmly and lovingly addressed by an adult.

On a side note (while related in my mind) dogs are welcome in venues where they would not be in many other countries. This is not quite as prevalent as it once was. The observation that French dogs are remarkably well behaved has been studied. They are often unleashed, but rarely stray from their owner or show aggression. At the same time, their obedience is immediate.

It is true, that adherence in France to picking up dog excrement is not high. I imagine their reasoning is – it is natural fertilizer and will be gone in a short while; the plastic bags used to pick up the waste is more of a pollutant. We do however, pick our dog Duhkxy’s poop up.

Duhkxy

Back to the beautiful Spring flowers

Back to Canaling

Our first experience on the French Canals began in April, 2017. We had just purchased our sailboat “Ice Floe deux”. We bought her in Cherbourg, situated in the north of France on the English Channel.

This depicts the extensive canals and waterways of Europe. The arrow in this photo between France and England points to Cherbourg and the arrow on the Mediterranean coast points to Nice (approximately).

On this voyage we passed through beautiful villages, vineyards of great distinction, the very heart of Paris, Lyon, and other beautiful cities and towns. Our trip on the canals ended in Nice, on the Mediterranean coast. The trip took 3 weeks.

We flew through 189 locks, and crossed 2 aqueducts as we bisected France from North to South following a brisk itinerary that involved joining guests and family at specific locations.

There are quite a few Blogs on this site detailing this amazing journey. We knew we must come back. This time, we would immerse ourselves in all France has to offer at a snail’s pace.

Speaking of Snails…

Snails, we have concluded, thrive in France – with little to no sense of boundaries.

They sneak in through your windows (we have put up screens)
Snails find their way to planters on the boat deck (we gently send them back to land).

It is well known that many snails are eaten in France prepared as escargot. I cannot personally verify that the small garden snails we have been entertained by are eaten, but I do see some reference to that in my reading.

The snails we have been observing are most active in the rainy season. They are known to display a very interesting behavior during very dry and hot weather. We saw this shortly after we arrived. It did not rain for a solid month and temperatures were a stifling high 90s and low 100s.

During hot, dry spells, these snails climb up a tree or stalk, cover the opening to their shells with a thin membrane, and remain dormant until weather conditions improve. This behavior is called “aestivating”

We have also seen larger snails that appear to have partially buried themselves in the soil.

These, and many more interesting things await our discovery as we canal our way through the miles and miles of French canals.

After spending two seasons in the Mediterranean (detailed in blogs on this site), we had Ice Floe shipped from Genoa, Italy to St. Thomas and have been exploring the Eastern Caribbean and ABC islands (Aruba, Curaçao, and Bonaire) for several years.

We always knew we would someday return to canalling.

As our travel schedule took us away from home for a good portion of the year, we began considering, the wisdom of selling our home in the US. It was, for me, an agonizing decision. George built our beautiful home, almost single-handedly, and I will always feel a little ache at the thought of never living there again.

My ache has been somewhat assuaged by our decision to purchase a canal boat in France, and a beautiful vacation home in Carriacou.

Introducing our canal boat, “Detour”

What’s in a name

We chose the name “Detour” for our canal boat for two reasons. The first, and most obvious, is the role she played in our decision to sell our home. The second reason is that the word “detour”, means the same thing, and is spelled the same way, in English and in French.

She resembles the canal boats that served for decades as the primary means of transporting goods. She was built in 2017 and was rented to vacationers until she became ours. She is a massive steel boat and requires a gentle hand for steering.

Before canal boats were motorized, they were pulled along by horses. The horses strode on wide paths each side of the canals. These paths, called towpaths, have been beautifully maintained for centuries. They serve as recreational paths for pedestrians, cyclists, and horseback riders. They are also off-road paths that connect towns and villages. Duhkxy loves to accompany us on long walks we take each day.

Detour came with four bicycles. We returned our rental car some time ago and are now peddling for provisions and sightseeing. Duhkxy can not accompany us yet, but a trailer for him is on order. It will be interesting to see how he likes it.

We are moored, to date, on the Canal Midi at La Port Robine. There are a number of boats here that serve as permanent, stationary, residences. Sections designated as “Long Stay”, have quite a few unoccupied boats that appear to have stayed for very long times. We have found it to be the same in most boatyards and marinas.

We have been here for about 5 weeks. So far, Detour has only been out for one short spin to pick up a couch. We’ve had a lot of cleaning and shopping to do (dishes, linens, furniture) and lots, lots more. It’s all coming together. If the last few purchases arrive when promised, we should be on our way in early August.